Why you’re drinking Port all wrong

Tuesday 19 August 2025 12:37 pm

It seems I’ve been ingesting port fully unsuitable. For me, this heavy fortified wine has at all times been one thing for the winter. A small glass served at room temperature to pair with the Christmas stilton. If anyplace goes to high school me on the “how tos” of port then Kopke, the world’s oldest port home, might be greatest positioned to take action. 

Arriving at Kopke’s newly launched Tivoli resort in fairly Porto, simply twenty minutes from the airport, I used to be welcomed with a glass of chilled ruby purple port. At this temperature the intense fruit got here throughout as pristine, crystalline and the drink itself felt lighter and brisker. It was surprisingly good popping out of the 34 diploma warmth outdoors. 

That is a part of port’s revamp for the youthful technology, with whom port has been falling out of favour. Traditionally their grandparents drank ruby and tawny ports at room temperature however now each are served chilly from the fridge or in an ice bucket – and it’s undeniably extra fulfilling. 

Over a port tasting on the resort’s slick fashionable wine bar, I be taught that the ruby model is extra common within the UK. That is vivid purple and vibrantly fruity. If the bottle says ‘reserve’ it’s of barely greater high quality and complexity and if it says ‘L.B.V’ or late bottle classic it means the grapes have come from one 12 months and often been aged for between 4 and 6 years in barrel. Kopke tends to provide a barely drier model, and this jogs my memory of a wealthy Amarone purple wine. Our sommelier suggests ingesting an L.B.V with a dry aged steak. “Port isn’t only for cheese and dessert”.

Tawny ports have been aged in smaller wood barrels the place the oxygen contact turns them brown and develops extra caramelised, nutty notes. They are typically lighter with ‘reserve’ and ‘colheita’ being aged at the least seven years with ‘colheita’ additionally that means a single classic – which is extra prestigious. The Kopke Tawny Port Colheita 2005 (£37 Waitrose) is a wonderful instance of candied peel and spice – a heavenly pairing for a Portuguese pastel de nata. 

If a bottle says “10 years” or “40 years” on it, that’s the typical age of the wines within the bottle mix, however some could also be much less or extra. It’s a little bit of a thriller however general, the older the typical the extra developed and sophisticated the port. 

The brand new Tivoli Kopke resort lives and breathes port and Porto’s historical past. Sitting on the wine aspect of the river, among the many historic port homes, round 2.7million litres of port are saved right here of their enormous barrel room occasion areas. Virtually brutalist in design, the inside’s darkish metallic and wooden mirrors the supplies of a vineyard. Escaping the sensible warmth outdoors, lengthy, darkly cool corridors are dotted with vibrant (usually weird) fashionable artwork and open up into glass walled rooms that benefit from the resort’s spectacular views. 

The areas are all wine-themed, just like the Port & Tonic bar subsequent to the outside pool, with views out over the Douro River, Luis I Bridge and the patchwork of orange-tiled rooftops on the financial institution past. The indoor spa pool, bookable by the hour to make sure a most of eight customers a time, gymnasium and sauna all emphasise the view and bedrooms open to small non-public terraces the place port could be sipped overlooking the river to a welcome breeze and the sound of church bells. 

Porto is small and walkable, regardless of being very hilly, so the placement is ideal to discover town – even when my explorations have been primarily drinks based mostly. The Vinum restaurant on the Graham’s Port Cave deserves honourable point out for its spectacular view taking in each riverbanks, the bridge and the distinctive round Serra do Pilar Monastery. A great place to benefit from the white port and tonic which is obtainable virtually religiously earlier than a meal. So common is it that Graham’s has designed its Graham’s Mix No. 5 (£28.50 Waitrose) particularly for tonic in what’s the Portuguese equal of a Brit’s basic G&T. Greatest served with a slice of lemon and a sprig of rosemary or mint, that is fruity, refreshing and additional proof that Port isn’t only for Christmas. 

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Porto Pairing 

Matriarca, on Porto’s historic Carlos Alberto Sq., calls itself “a house for wine lovers”. Above their stunning wood saloon model wine bar, the enchanting duck-egg blue and white eating room is like stepping right into a interval drama. Comfy but elegant, refined but relaxed and with a sensational wine record too.

Portugal’s Douro area is understood for its structured, luxurious reds and a Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca mix is sensible with purple meat like a beef wellington. The grip and construction of Symington’s Quinta do Vesuvio (£48.61, portugalvineyards.com) cuts by means of the fats of meat and pastry because the purple fruit compliments the earthy umami of the mushroom paté.

This wealthy wine meets the dish head on with depth of flavour and full-bodied heady attraction.

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Wine suggestions 

Arnaud Lambert ‘David’ Saumur-Brézé – £39 Berry Bros & Rudd 

A pleasingly supple Chenin Blanc from the Loire. 60-year-old vines and twelve months in barrel add focus, roundness and complexity. Delicate, white-fleshed stone fruits and a slick, citrus crispness means this could go well with baked white fish or roasted white meats effectively. 

Gusbourne Commanders Blanc de Blancs Brut 2019 – £95 gusbourne.com

The UK had a record-breaking 12 months on the Decanter Awards, taking house extra medals than ever – significantly for our glowing. This excellent bottle by Gusbourne received a gold medal. No shock given its magnificence, complicated nuanced layers and lengthy end that resonates throughout the palate. 

Lyme Bay Shoreline – £18.50 Waitrose

Lyme Bay’s wines are a factor of magnificence, and the Shoreline is a mix of eight zippy, zesty, fragrant grapes from Essex’s acclaimed Crouch Valley. Balanced between contemporary citrus and vivid tropical fruits it is a lithe white wine for any Sauvignon Blanc or English Bacchus lovers.