A brand new residency in a long-lived pub in east London offers meals that may be a full delight
It’s a preferred soccer pub that’s persistently filled with patrons. Nevertheless it’s now additionally dwelling to a restaurant that includes the most effective Greek meals I’ve ever eaten within the capital.
Upon getting into the Adam & Eve in Homerton, E9, you’re greeted by a quintessentially pubby environment. The shock is around the again: Essi has arrange a long-term residency there. Behind the enterprise is Kostas Vais, who combines his Greek heritage with expertise in Australia’s buzzing hospitality scene.
His is a menu centred on hearth cooking, that includes a spread of dishes that merge his Greek traditions with Australian influences. His kitchen makes use of British seasonal produce alongside some imported Australian herbs and spices like lemon myrtle and finger lime.
Beforehand, Essi operated at TT Liquor in Shoreditch, however Kostas has held pop-ups in New York and Brighton too. Its new house is a enjoyable selection, having hosted everybody from Teddy Boys to indie bands and DJs down the many years.
The principle bar presents Essi’s hen and pork souvlaki in pita bread, alongside a home burger with yogurt tartare. The principle restaurant space is tucked away on the again, a pleasingly moody arrange with darkish wooden furnishings and retro lamps creating an intimate eating house out of ear-shot from the soccer followers. Kostas’ ardour for meals – he gushed with pleasure when talking to On London – shines by means of.
The place to start out? The loaded potatoes are an absolute standout. The kale salad is way extra attention-grabbing than you’d think about, adorned with whipped feta and pine nuts, generously drizzled with oregano and lemon-infused oil. It’s correct consolation meals.
For a veggie like me, aubergine could make or break a restaurant. Right here, it was cooked fantastically, smoked however staying juicy. The pomegranate seeds set it off properly.
My meat-eating companion was impressed by the beneficiant lamb chops – succulent and the correct amount of uncommon. I nabbed a little bit of the lemony mash, and will have ordered that by itself. Essi’s goat pitas, one other signature dish, are succulent and moreish.
It is a decent-value menu. The dishes are plentiful – significantly the “5 spice loaded potates” (Greek, after all).
For dessert, there’s a exceptional baked custard and filo pastry creation known as Galaktoboureko. It’s a Balkan magnificence, but additionally a household recipe that Kostas has cleverly elevated. It bubbles away because it’s served, and substantial sufficient to share between two folks. It’s as if rice pudding and halva had produced a scrumptious offspring.
The restaurant, just like the pub, is open seven days every week, and the Sunday service presents a charcoal spit roast with choices like pork shoulder, Suffolk lamb, hen thighs or mushrooms, served with conventional sides.
Essi is, to my thoughts, a cheerful shock. Reverse the hen outlets and behind the TV screens of Homerton is a Greek deal with of gastronomical proportions. It’s hearty meals that’s dripping with flavour and loads of tasty oil. This pop-up deserves to turn into everlasting. Hell, franchise it. I’d run in the direction of this each week if it was in my native boozer.
Different dishes we didn’t attempt: the snack choice consists of the favored Saganaki Toastie with rainforest lime, Osso Bucco Bites with avocado feta dip, and Spanakopita made with xigalo (gentle goat or sheep) cheese and spinach). Major programs embrace lamb ribs, fish of the day with skordalia, and an “revolutionary” octopus bolognese ready with Australian bush tomato and graviera cheese.
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