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“Style passes; fashion stays,” mentioned Gabrielle Chanel.
It’s clear that this high fashion assortment embodied its founder’s ethos, presenting a subdued assortment in pared-back, earthy tones.
This autumn/winter 2025-26 present was impressed by the autumn harvest – symbolic of bounty, renewal and transition.
It was the final to be designed by the Chanel Design Studio, which labored with Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard – Chanel’s former artistic administrators.
In October, the style home will start a brand new cycle, when its new artistic director Matthieu Blazy will debut his assortment in Paris at spring/summer season 2026 Style Week.
Sitting entrance row to look at this closing farewell to Chanel’s Design Studio was Gracie Abrams, carrying a white tiered costume from the label’s Resort 2026 Assortment, Kirsten Dunst, Keira Knightley, Sofia Coppola together with her rarely-seen daughters Romy and Cosima, and Penelope Cruz.
For the present, items have been set in opposition to a backdrop impressed by the unique high fashion salons the place Gabrielle Chanel first championed pared-back class, the gathering unfolded in a palette of earthy neutrals – ecru, ivory, moss inexperienced, chocolate brown and inky black.
Wheat, a long-standing image of prosperity cherished by the founder herself, appeared as a recurring motif all through – reimagined as jewelled buttons and complex embroidery, showcasing the beautiful craftsmanship of the Chanel ateliers.
When Chanel first launched her designs in 1910, they have been shockingly avant-garde, dressing ladies in wide-leg trousers, cardigan jackets, striped Breton tops, turbans and turtlenecks. It was, on the time, outrageous.
Immediately nonetheless, Chanel is taken into account to be probably the most timeless – and maybe the ‘most secure’ – of heritage labels.
However this strategy isn’t a foul factor, notably with high fashion, which is about extraordinary handwork, embroidery, feather work and the like – features which are innate within the biology of Chanel.
This assortment remained true to its heritage, presenting iconic items reimagined into symbols of nature – from white hen feathers to the ears of wheat sewn to the sleeves of Chanel bouclé.
The Chanel tweed go well with isn’t the simplest canon to work in – it may well so simply go lumpy and stodgy. This assortment neatly prevented the issue, including fringe, fluffy feathers, tassels and wealthy layering.
Longer skirts and clothes flowed elegantly over knee-high boots, whereas leather-based textures introduced an edge to the in any other case calm assortment.
The present was a quiet farewell from the silent studio which were the brains behind the final three collections, whereas on the similar time, it was a have a look at the label’s thrilling future.
All eyes now flip to Matthieu Blazy, who will inherit the home’s storied codes and produce them into a brand new chapter for a budding spring assortment.
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