“If you see something on the menu that you don’t know, that’s what you should order” – Sophie Grigson on Italian food, family secrets and the joy of trying something new

“If you see something on the menu that you don’t know, that’s what you should order” – Sophie Grigson on Italian food, family secrets and the joy of trying something new

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Hearken to Sophie Grigson on the podcast as she shares how a daring transfer to Puglia reignited her ardour for meals. Discover extra scrumptious tales on our podcast web page.

The actual flavour of Puglia

Ceglie Messapica

What stunned Sophie most upon settling in was simply how completely different Puglian meals is from the Italian fare most Brits know and love. Neglect creamy lasagnes and wealthy egg pasta, the south, she found, is a world aside.

“After I bought to Puglia, it actually introduced dwelling how regional Italian meals is,” she explains. “Puglian meals may be very, very completely different from the meals of northern Italy… For example, pasta is simply made with flour and water as a result of they have been very, very poor.”

“The panorama is another excuse that Puglian meals may be very vegetable-based…The land may be very stony, very onerous to until, and there’s little or no water… So, a whole lot of pulses, since you might develop them within the winter, harvest them, after which dry them for the summer season.”

A rustic of contrasts

Travelling throughout Italy, Sophie has develop into fascinated by the way in which historical past and geography form what finally ends up on the plate. She describes a culinary journey from the Greek-influenced bitterness of Puglia to the sweet-and-sour flavours of Sicily – a legacy of Moorish affect.

“As you progress throughout by Calabria in the direction of Sicily, you begin getting candy and bitter flavours coming in, the agrodolce flavours, which I’d at all times related to Sicily. And once more, that agrodolce shouldn’t be so prevalent additional north.”

However the variations aren’t nearly components – they’re about identification. “Northern Italians suppose the Southern Italians are lazy, silly and fewer educated. Now, it’s not true in any respect. Among the hardest working folks I do know are southern Italians… after which the Southern Italians suppose the Northern Italians are snobs, too correct, don’t know how you can reside correctly.”

Sophie has her personal concept about what binds Italy collectively: “The way in which they consider meals, it’s like a pyramid. All Italians know that the very best delicacies on the earth is Italian. Then, the very best Italian meals comes from their area. Then, the meals of their city is best than some other city. And the top is the cooking of their nonna or mama is best than anything. And woe betide you in the event you argue with that.”

Household, heritage and the enjoyment of the unknown

Sophie’s personal meals heritage runs deep. Her mom, Jane Grigson, was a revered meals author and Sophie grew up in a family the place “meals mattered” and curiosity was inspired.

“One among my mom’s nice mantras, which truly got here from my grandmother, was in the event you see one thing on a menu that you just don’t know, that’s what you need to order. Don’t order the factor that you just’re comfy with. Attempt one thing completely different.”

It’s a philosophy that has served her effectively in Italy, the place she’s embraced native dialects, traditions and a complete new approach of cooking. However some British comforts nonetheless name her again, similar to Sussex pond pudding – a suet-crusted dessert with a complete lemon hidden inside. “That was one my mum made… Once you minimize into it, this lake of lemony, buttery, sugary syrup comes out and it’s divine.”

Sussex puddle pudding

Kitchen disasters and responsible pleasures

Even probably the most seasoned cooks have their disasters. Sophie remembers the time she left a gammon within the oven for twenty-four hours solely to find “a a lot smaller charcoal model of the gammon.”

Hot honey-glazed gammon with slices cut from the front

As for responsible pleasures? “Scampi fries,” she confesses with amusing. “There’s simply one thing about them that’s addictive, isn’t it?”

Classes from a life in meals

For Sophie, good meals begins with good components, “not costly, however truly ones which might be… contemporary, domestically grown if you may get them.” And above all, she champions curiosity. “Meals is thrilling. That’s the way you uncover meals and that’s the way you uncover a rustic.”

Whether or not she’s unearthing the secrets and techniques of Puglian pulses or perfecting a tarte tatin, Sophie’s story is a reminder that the very best meals – and the very best lives – are these seasoned with curiosity, braveness and a touch of journey.

Tarte tatin with a slice cut

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