Domaine des Etangs is a weekend escape in the South of France – City AM

Friday 29 November 2024 3:56 pm

Domaine des Etangs is that uncommon and fantastic factor: a retreat in probably the most unimaginable, secluded location that you’ll by no means wish to go away.

THE WEEKEND

“That is the land of chestnut eaters,” Jean-François, grounds keeper of the Domaine des Etangs, tells me as we roam the 1,000-hector woods amassing fistfuls of fallen chestnuts. It’s a vibrant autumn day, and we additionally cease to pluck the occasional sheep’s foot mushroom. “For the remainder of the French, that is nonetheless a wild nation,” he says – and he ought to know. His household has lived on this a part of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine, recognized regionally because the Limousin area, for a whole lot of years.   

Set about 45 minutes from Cognac and two hours from Bourdeaux, Domaine des Etangs does really feel removed from the twenty first century, a spot of straightforward pleasures and nation allure. As soon as we return to the Domaine, the chestnuts might be roasted over a wooden hearth and we are going to eat them nonetheless heat, served out of a paper cone, alongside crisp pear cider. That is how issues are executed right here.

THE STAY

Made up of six cottages and 11 rooms and suites (unfold throughout the primary Thirteenth-century stone Chateau and Longère), Domaine des Etangs was first constructed by the knights of Chasteignier de la Roche-Posay however just lately got here underneath the Auberge Resorts Assortment aegis in 2023. The land is a marvel with meadows, forests, ponds, and a 650-strong herd of prize-winning Limousin cattle, that are additionally conspicuously current on the dinner menu (served fire-grilled with frites and velvety bearnaise sauce). 

THE FOOD

Dyades is the property’s fundamental restaurant, which has a flower-framed out of doors terrace and cosy interiors, warmed with a wood-burning hearth. The menu is a celebration of native fare, a lot of which is grown onsite within the backyard or sourced from small, close by producers. 

Prime dishes embody a bone marrow tartine; duck with candied turnips; trout with beurre blanc; and a really autumn salad of beetroot, pumpkin, and chestnuts (naturellement). For dessert, don’t miss the chariot de fromage (cheese trolley) with a small however good number of regional cheeses. The wines are divinely impressed –go away it to the somm to decide on and also you’ll be spoiled. 

ASK ABOUT

Going foraging for chestnuts with Jean-François is a should for his tales alone. Whilst a boy, he was a fan of this land, fishing and choosing wild mushrooms earlier than being chased away by the groundskeeper. Different issues to do: Take a row boat out on one of many many lakes and have a picnic; go for a horse journey underneath the oak bushes; stroll by means of the vegetable and herbs gardens; or play tennis on the floating courtroom.

Stationed in an outdated mill, Le Moulin serves because the atmospheric spa; and there’s additionally a thermal bathtub (with an indoor pool, steam rooms, and a frigidarium) and an out of doors pool to be used through the hotter months.

Day journeys to Cognac may be organized and the picturesque Haute Charente Lakes are lower than a 10-minute drive from the Domaine. I additionally advocate a go to to the storybook-pretty Château de La Rochefoucauld, courting again to the eleventh century.

NEED TO KNOW

Nightly charges at Domaine des Etangs begin from £265 not together with breakfast. E book on-line right here or name +33 5 45 61 85 00