Calvin Klein Collections made its return to the New York Vogue Week schedule over the weekend, following a six-year hiatus. The AW25 assortment performed closely on the label’s minimalist roots, and the present was even attended by the 82-year-old founder himself. The lady behind this was Veronica Leoni, an Italian designer who was appointed as inventive director final Might.
Calvin Klein has been designer-less since Raf Simons exited the inventive director position in late 2018. Whereas Leoni isn’t a family identify, her credentials converse for themselves. She has beforehand held roles at Jil Sander, Phoebe Philo’s Céline, Moncler and The Row. She additionally based her personal label — Quira — three years in the past, and was an LVMH Prize finalist in 2023.
(Picture credit score: Quira)
Her appointment at PVH Corp-owned Calvin Klein final Might got here as a shock, particularly on condition that she is a lady — the primary to ever maintain such a place on the model. The previous couple of years have sparked a serious variety debate throughout the style trade, as a result of inventive director appointments at main conglomerates predominantly being given to cis white males. Nonetheless, Leoni represents a brand new wave of girls — comparable to Chemena Kamali at Chloé and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta — designing and catering to what ladies prospects truly wish to put on.
Eva Serrano, world model president at Calvin Klein, stated of Leoni’s appointment final Might: “It was clear from our first conversations that Veronica’s life’s work had been getting ready her for this second and the chance to outline a brand new period for Calvin Klein. I’m assured that her purposeful method to design and work ethic, mixed with our shared values, will additional enrich our iconic model and lead to a set that resonates with our customers world wide.”
Kendall Jenner backstage at Calvin Klein Assortment AW25
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
So then, what of her debut? Provided that her predecessor is now Miuccia Prada’s right-hand man and considerably of a style legend, mixed with the truth that Calvin Klein Collections (the upper finish line to the primary label) was suspended in 2019, it’s protected to say that the expectations have been fairly excessive.
The 63-look co-ed assortment was positively stylish — assume impartial color palette, sharp tailoring and elevated fundamentals. In different phrases, precisely what the Calvin model brings to thoughts. Nonetheless, there have been some twists, comparable to CK One fragrance bottle formed night baggage in gold, silver and tortoiseshell, with delicate chain straps. Metallic discs-cum-sequins additionally featured throughout on floor-length clothes and skirts, styled with chunky males’s brogues and barely-there make-up. There have been additionally pops of color, comparable to a draped, pillar-box-red robe, a shrunken plum v-neck jumper and a chocolate, curly-textured coat/costume.
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
Talking of outerwear, that’s the place the AW25 assortment actually excelled. From a slate-grey, outsized blazer worn by Kendall Jenner, to caped shoulder black wool coats, this was really power-dressing at its best.
In an announcement final Might, Leoni stated: “For many years, Calvin Klein interpreted the concept of daring self-expression, and I’m keen to empower it with a powerful accent on fashion and creativity. I’m deeply grateful to Eva Serrano for her imaginative and prescient and belief. My profession has been marked by inspiring encounters with among the most visionary ladies in style and she or he is considered one of them. I additionally wish to thank PVH CEO Stefan Larsson for the wonderful alternative to have a good time some of the influential manufacturers of American style.”
(Picture credit score: Getty Pictures)
Her debut balanced the tough job of staying respectful to a storied model’s previous, whereas giving a contemporary, future-facing perspective. We hope to see extra appointments like hers at prime style homes.
